In honor of our September concern, ELLE is partnering with Substack, enlisting among the platform’s most adopted vogue writers to write down essays accompanying our fall vogue shoots. At present’s version options Laurel Pantin, writer of the Earl Earl e-newsletter.
My first actual purchasing reminiscence (and, I feel, the expertise that made me love clothes the way in which I do) was in 1998, once I was 12. My father introduced me to ByGeorge, the storied specialty retailer in Austin (the place I might later work as the style director at giant), to purchase a costume to put on to my cousin’s wedding ceremony in Venezuela. What a mouthful that’s. I used to be teetering on the precipice of adolescence—I can’t bear in mind if I owned a bra but—however the retailer was so grownup, so refined in comparison with the place I used to be used to purchasing (primarily Hole or Ann Taylor), and my dad handled me with a lot respect and care…it was magic. I bear in mind, at the moment, the shop carried garments from manufacturers like Tocca and BCBG, and collectively we picked out the right costume. It was quick, however not too quick, and had a squared-off scoop neck with thick straps. It was viscose, most likely, it was slinky and springy—and better of all, it was black.
We purchased black satin Mary Jane block heels to go together with it, and to this present day I don’t have the phrases to explain how modified I felt.
The day of the marriage, I spent all afternoon with my older cousins and aunts preparing. It didn’t matter that I barely spoke Spanish. We have been every engaged in our personal private transformations, and a roomful of ladies individually reworking collectively is highly effective. I can’t bear in mind what any of my different cousins wore. I feel my Aunt Fifi was in a purple robe, however there I used to be in black.
The spell that little black costume had over me made me really feel grownup and younger on the identical time, traditional however present, magnetic however delicate. That LBD (by BCBG) contained (within the phrases of Meredith Brooks on her seminal monitor “Bitch”) “slightly little bit of all the things, all rolled into one.” If the witchery of slightly black costume was obtainable to me approach earlier than I thought of making an attempt to get boys’ consideration, think about my enthusiasm for the garment as soon as I began courting! And positive, the life-changing LBD is a little bit of a cliché, however clichés are often true. That one not solely made me dance actually all evening on the wedding ceremony (at age 10!), however I feel it was largely chargeable for setting me on the profession path I’m on now. No bullshit, that costume modified my life.
Hair by Syd Hayes at Artwork + Commerce; make-up by Miranda Joyce for Chanel; manicure by Ami Streets for Byredo; casting by Michelle Lee Casting; mannequin: Mathilda Gvarliani at Subsequent; produced by Honor Hellon Manufacturing.
This shoot seems within the September 2024 concern of ELLE.